Dmm offset nuts review forum. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a Dec 13, 2009 · They are a more difficult to clean than most of the nuts we tested. They chose not to change the numbering on the nuts, and instead just standardized the color scheme to match their lineup. 4s-The #0. I'm Mr V diff man so find I'm using mid range sizes. Black Diamond Nuts ($80)-#4 through #13-Includes premium nut tool with leash-Includes carabiner. 5 is actually a #1 Alien, which is the same size, and has the right color (purple) carabiner Has anyone had a chance to try out the new BD Offset Stoppers? How do they compare to the DMM ones. Feb 6, 2018 · If regular nuts and most hexes are offset when placed in their sideways position, why are offset nuts so popular and even sold? For example: Is the angle significantly different between DMM Wallnuts in their sideways position and DMM HB Alloy Offsets that they work for different placements? Oct 31, 2024 · Most offset climbing nuts, like the DMM Alloy Offset, the DMM Peenut, and the Black Diamond Offset don't do as well in more parallel-sided cracks, but that's okay as most people are more likely to place a cam in these places anyway. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. Latest Posts in all Forums. DMM bought their assets and restarted the offset nut product lines. I also recommend getting one BD #3. One set of nuts will be fine in this area, that changes though if you go to places like Devils Tower which is mostly crack climbing. The WC superlight offsets are, for me, a backup to either on any route, giving you a double rack with extra alternative placements (offset or standard) and for a healthy weight reduction. Aug 17, 2015 · The DMM nuts are far superior on Yosemite and Zion walls, in my opinion. Occasionally I climbed with friends who had a set, and they always seemed to work really well. Sep 21, 2022 · The same applies to the original WC half nut and the dmm halfnut. Simon Marsh and Chris Rowlands of DMM Jun 4, 2025 · Do you need offset nuts? Offset climbing nuts make an excellent complement to a rack of nuts. ) and have a bit of a gap between sizes (I infill this gap with a Dec 5, 2008 · Buy the DMM Offset Nuts from Backcountry. You get a decent size run and good overlap. But I personally do carry offset nuts on my climbing rack. DMM Dragonfly Cams ($200) UPDATED-#4 through #6-Includes color coded carabiners. I want to get a new set of nuts and have really like the DMM Offset nuts but the BD ones look just the same with the benefit of the color coding matching the standard BD ones. With a 12kN strength rating, they are durable and lightweight, featuring recessed wires to reduce wear and weight-saving holes in larger sizes. DMM Alloy Offsets for trad climbing Asymmetrical offset nuts for rock protection Durable alloy offset stoppers for climbers Lightweight offset nuts for thin cracks Color-coded DMM Alloy Offsets for easy use Grooved face design for secure placements Strong 12kN strength DMM offset nuts Ideal offset protection for various terrains Unique tapered design for challenging routes An Adventure Projects staff member will review this and take an appropriate action, but we generally don't reply. 5. BD X4 Offset Cams Jan 5, 2018 · Get DMM offset nuts, the are great. 75. A couple thoughts on the choice: I have and *love* the DMM alloy offsets. DMM Offset Nuts Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season cr Apr 28, 2019 · A number 2 BD microstopper is rated 3kN, a number 2 DMM IMP (same size) is rated 5kN. I also have a double set of the DMM aluminum Peanuts (offset). All the BD nuts I have sit in a box at home, I only carry DMM offset nuts now. May 3, 2015 · The DMM offsets are first out of the bag for rhyolite in Wales and the Lakes, where Wallnuts would get the nod on grit. Anyway, as I mentioned they come in a set of 5 (smaller offset nuts are available in brass much like the original RP’s), each is rated to 12 kN, they range in size from 12 to 23mm (size 7 to 11), colour coded, are not inexpensive (about $16 ea. You can get a confidence inspiring amount of surface contact in a lot of semi flaring placements that are common to that kind of climbing. I have never touched an offset piece of pro before. I don’t think they are totally necessary, especially if you buy a full rack of the DMM Wallnuts. Offset superlight and dmm/hb offsets are handed in both orientations. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. Hoping that someone can help make my mind up. 4. I highly recommend you go with any/all of the DMM nuts for Yosemite walls. Feb 25, 2025 · 2. The document has moved here. com I’d always heard how awesome the old HB Offset nuts were, especially for flaring placements, but after the company went out of business, they were a lot harder to find. 3. Have basically narrowed things down to either the DMM HB Offsets or the DMM IMPs. Offset models are also generally harder to clean because they are asymmetric - they don't want to rotate upwards Aug 13, 2022 · Offset nuts were originally manufactured by "HB" until they went out of business ~2005. Irregular is better. DMM Offset Nuts ($80) SOLD-#7 through #11-Includes nut tool-Includes carabiner. STOP PRESS: And DMM have delivered. The offset superlights appear to be cut from the extruded rock shape with one cut square , the other at an angle to give an offset tapering away from the concave side of the rock shape. Sep 11, 2024 · A set of Offset Nuts (5 nuts) DMM or Black Diamond; Ideally, you'd add these as soon as financially possible: Totem: black, blue, yellow, purple (4 cams) Black Diamond C4: another 2 and 3 (2 cams) -A set of small nuts like DMM peanuts or BD size 3-7 ^This makes a full "double rack" (15 cams, ~10 nuts) of the finest gear available today. Black Diamond X4 Cams ($100) SOLD-#0. Even at Verti Call I sell maybe 15 DMM Alloy Offset for 1 WC Superlight Offset which is clearly not rewarding WC for making such a nice offset nuts. Related Searches. 1. Review DMM Offset Nut Review Features Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. Rack is as follows Dmm walnuts 1-11 Wild country rock set 1-10 Dmm torque nuts 1-4 (they do my head in bashing together) Dragon cams 2-4 6x quickdraws 25cm Both set dmm pro wires 5x quickdraws 12cm various krabs , Prussic cord ect 2x 60 cm slings 3x 120cm slings 1x 240cm slings 2x belays 1x nut key Ben The Ex-Engineer Nov 4, 2012 · Last weekend I had the pleasure of placing DMM offset stoppers. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. These nuts will last a long time. They're OK, but I haven't become a big fan of them. I went home and ordered the #7-#9 pieces. 4 through #0. Grooved faces improve security on irregular Mar 5, 2023 · Introduction to DMM Offset Nuts DMM Offset Nuts are some of the most popular and versatile pieces of climbing hardware on the market. Basically, a DMM Offset Nut is an adjustable wedge-shaped nut that is designed to be […]. Offsets were originally produced in both their brass micro wire, and alloy macro wire (a purely invented term!) forms by HB Climbing of Wales. Yeah good reply thanks. Sep 30, 2016 · My granite climbing rack with the DMM Offset Nuts supplemented with a few others. com Granite cracks love Dmm offsets. Alloy Offsets provide reliable protection in irregular and flared cracks where standard nuts fail. Use in combination with normal nuts to find security in almost any crack. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Gear strength is overemphasized by climbing theoreticians, most of the time the piece pulls before it breaks, but in these small sizes the wire does fail in practice and this considerable difference rules out BD for me. Their asymmetrical taper ensures stable placements, while dual-orientation usability enhances versatility. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre If I can find some way to do this, and hopefully if DMM can stop the slippage in future batches, then my opinion will go back to Offsets being amongst the best nuts around but not, sadly, until then. Black Diamomd Camalot Cams ($550)-#0. 3 through #4-Double #0. Beautiful condition, barely used trad climbing gear. 6. Nov 23, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. People often climbing on textured rock in traditional areas will certainly enjoy the benefit of these nuts. Passive protection can be placed either side or face on, doubling the number of cracks any single piece can protect. Other than what I can read in a book, any comments, tips or suggestions when using these pieces of pro in free climbing application only? Aug 9, 2020 · Those nuts are old school but climbers did not know the WC Superlight so they still gave their fate on the DMM Alloy Offset. Value DMM Wallnuts are in the middle with respect to price. They provide an easy way to rig anchors, secure rappels and create emergency anchors in a pinch. Feb 7, 2021 · Looking to round out my rack with some small brass nuts. The smaller sizes of the standard set, gold -red, find a lot of use. FROM Simon Marsh at DMM 24th June 2008. Since they are more specialized nuts, offset nuts do cost a bit more. Moved Permanently. xvgj pnfbas ednlg vawcdcj fohpo phbn qtxtqi ejtjbs gmo rcu